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Hi Julia

The Tripple Ten is made by Nutri-tech Solutions at Yandina. This is the link to the product description. http://www.nutri-tech.com.au/products_new/liquid-fertilisers/triple-ten-range.html . You can use the Tripple Ten from planting of seed or transplanting, but generally I would use a dry granular preplant such as CK55S or similar at about 40 to 50 g/m2 worked into the soil preplant as well. But if you prefer not to use synthetic fert, just apply Tripple Ten from start and a little heavier.

I always dealt direct with them and had product sent by post for up to 20 litre and rail for larger orders. They have recently started establishing a network of local agents. I know the one in Bundaberg, but if you wish to call them on their main business number they might have someone closer. Phone: +61 7 5472 9900

A dose of lime probably won't hurt. But mushroom compost is usually fairly alkaline and organic fertilisers are generally fairly neutral to only slightly acidic. If you don't have a ph tester there are a few different types you can get. I don't like the electronic ones. They can give false readings. I prefer the one where you mix up a bit of soil with a special solution, dust it with the powder supplied, give it a few minutes to react and compare it to the colour chart. They are available at all garden supply outlets for a few dollars. Invaluable for taking the guesswork out of liming.

If you decide to get one and do a ph test, just select a spot outside where you have just limed. The fresh lime will skew the test. For best results I do at least two or three and average them.
 
Me Beans came up today .Also I've planted three dif types of tomato seedlings today as well . The theory being which taste the best, which perform the best ,so next time i will just plant them .

cheers
 
onemore said:
Also I've planted three dif types of tomato seedlings today as well . The theory being which taste the best, which perform the best ,so next time i will just plant them .

cheers
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Good thinking onemore.

What varities did you plant?
 
Oh, apart from the few things I mentioned the other day, I also have a monstera deliciosa. This is not my plant, just one from wikipedia. This one is fairly old. It would take years to get that size. I just cut them back when they start getting too unruly.

Quite exquisite taste, like a sweet fruit salad in one plant.
 

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onemore said:
Sweet Bite,Ox Heart and First Prize, the later seems to be the more sturdier plants.
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I've grown all of these. The First Prize did no good at all, but both the others were excellent, producing lots of fruit and resistance to disease and pests. Good luck with them.

Whiskers: The Monstera Deliciosa is a plant I've always known as "The Fruit Salad Plant" which seems appropriate in view of your comment about the taste.

Another delicious fruit is the jaboticaba which is not at all well known or popular, possibly due to the fact that it bears no fruit until it's about 5 years old and also it's a rather boring looking tree. The fruit is formed actually on the branches and is ready to eat when black and getting soft. They are about the size of a large grape and taste similar, with maybe the sweetness of lychee. Tough skin which you need to spit out. Once they do fruit, they will then have about four crops every year and appear to be untroubled by disease or pests.
 
onemore said:
Sweet Bite,Ox Heart and First Prize, the later seems to be the more sturdier plants.
Click to expand...

You have a bit of a variety there, onemore.

Ox Heart is a name I'm a bit familiar with. It was a common commercial variety years ago. You shouldn't go far wrong with it.

Sweet Bite is like a nice cherry size tomato. I get one like that growing wild in cultivated ground, is pretty hardy and tastes delicious.

Rouge de Marmande is another good tasting old variety especially for colder conditions.

The old Grosse Lisse was once an old favourite, but it is a bit soft and the centre often falls out when you cut it.

I can recall when the QDPI Bundaberg research station started trialing new firmer varities that could tolerate a bit of rough handling, ie so they could be picked by hand and placed on conveyors to carry them to a bulk bin like tennis balls. They came up with some tough ones alright, almost like eating leather. They have improved the flavour over time, but this is the truth, the ultimate goal of comercial tomato breeding is to breed one that can be completely mechanically harvested.

Floradade is one variety that was pretty firm, but didn't taste too flash.
 
Bean Question:

My bean plants have grown to the top of my fence.No signs of any beans yet,is it ok to cut the plants at that height or will that destroy them?

cheers
 
onemore said:
Bean Question:

My bean plants have grown to the top of my fence.No signs of any beans yet,is it ok to cut the plants at that height or will that destroy them?

cheers
Click to expand...

Hi onemore

Probably a bit late to prune them off. Some plants like tomatoes I nip the growing tip off when they are smaller to make them branch out more, but not heard it normally done to beans. But they will shoot out new branches if broken off.

I would be inclined to let them go because they must be close to flowering. What variety have you got?
 
Blue Lake ,
They only get about 5 hours a day sun.

My sweet bite have some small toms on them
Ox hearts not looking good no toms
First Prize Sturdy strong as have some small toms on them
 
onemore said:
Blue Lake ,
They only get about 5 hours a day sun.

My sweet bite have some small toms on them
Ox hearts not looking good no toms
First Prize Sturdy strong as have some small toms on them
Click to expand...

A bit more sun wouldn't hurt, but I think the biggest problem is lack of nutrition. This seems apparent because the beans and Ox Heart are the hungriest feeders and suffering the most. Don't know whether you put in much preplant fert, a balanced N.P.K. like Crop King Q5 (abt 2 handfulls/m of row) or CK 55S (1 handfull/m of row).

Since they are near flowering they need a quick pick-me-up with some trace elements. Something like Thrive or Aquasol. If you mixed some Seasol with either of these it would improve their performance. Choose the one with a higher Phosphate and Potassium relative to Nitrogen.

Alternatively, a little more expensive but I think better option is Tripple Ten from, http://www.nutri-tech.com.au/products_new/liquid-fertilisers/triple-ten-range.html, because it has a lot of organics plus Fulvic Acid which is claimed helps substitute for lack of sunlight.

I'd give them a regular dose of fert each day for three or four days to pich them up quickly, then a couple of times a week until they finish flowering.
 
How do you know when lettuce is ready to be harvested.Is it x number of weeks or just certain size. I think the type I have is mignette or something like that.

Onemore
 
hello all ...my name is trev im a commercial grower in qld any questions on vegetables cucurbits eggplant and most things i have a lot of knowledge.
so fire them at me see what i can do..

whiskers

nurtitech products are fine but far to expensive for home or commercial plants
it does work but the aim is to grow nutritious home grown food cheaply..
 
onemore said:
How do you know when lettuce is ready to be harvested.Is it x number of weeks or just certain size. I think the type I have is mignette or something like that.

Onemore
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Hi onemore.

Use the harvest times on the packet as a guide, I think migionette is about 10 weeks, but when I have a few planted at one time I start picking some a bit earlier so that the last ones don't get too mature and start to taste a bit bitter. When they start to mature you will see the centre harden up and a seed stalk start to come out to about a foot high.

I really liked the buttercrunch types... really crisp and not as strong flavour as some of the larger varieties... and you can pick them as young as you like. The younger they are the finer the flavour, but obviously you don't get so much.

Lettuce is classified as a leafy vegetable. The significance is that once established it doesn't need as much Phosphate as fruiting plants. Regular fertilisers like thrive and Aquasol will be fine.

If you use a lot of liquid fertiliser, and you can get to a rural suplies store, A 20 Kg bag of something like Grow Force Flowfeed CO3 is a good all round fert for all fruit, veg, flowers and trees. Flowfeed DM3 has higher Phosphate and potassium and lower Nitrogen and is better suited to fruiting and flowering plants once they are established. Just note that natives don't like much fert.
 

Hi trev.

I have mentioned earlier that Nutri-Tech is a bit more expensive and suggested cheaper options as well. I personally grow commercially in lower volume for quality and home garden for the same reason.

I find many people grow their own also for freshness and quality, because some comercial operators including the supermarkets over store fruit and veg to take advantage of buying at lower prices and kill the quality and goodness of the produce.
 
Thanks Whiskers,

I Have a feeling that there is not much about gardening that you don't know
 
I used to grow many things.

Now with the water restrictions I mainly keep my Raspberries alive and continue to grow Asian herbs.
 
The reason I'm starting to grow some vege's is that they are so expensive to buy .Also when you cut a tomato in half for example its f.....g hollow most times . And fruit is force ripened and woody, eg Oranges.

The good organic stuff is so expensive to buy but taste heaps better.

I would'nt have a clue about growing vege's. But I'm starting to get results already with little effort .

Its the way to go .

Cheers ..........Onemore
 
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