Vegetable garden
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I'm a balcony gardener and have 2 x passionfuit vines snaking around the railings. Had them for 2 years now but they won't flower - am I expecting toomuch from from being potted? Growth is vigorous and they get a 50% cutback when dormant. Any ideas??
Julia
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Roland,
I'm sad to say that I'm an expert in failed passionfruit vines. Have had some successes but more failures. The utter injustice about passionfruit appears to be that the more you love and care for it the more it decides to just spite you and do nothing. I have friends who harvest buckets of beautiful fruit from some forgotten vine at the bottom of the garden which never gets any attention at all.
I've tried seedlings which have come from the fruit, bought grafted vines, and allowed self sown plants to do their own thing. A couple of years aog I had a great Panama Red vine. It flowered profusely in less than a year and every flower set fruit. I happily watched the huge fruit take on a rich red colour. Finally came time to pick them. They were almost empty inside!!!
Such a disappointment.
Someone will be able to say why this would have happened.
As far as growing a vine in a pot is concerned, this could perhaps be the problem as they have fairly shallow, spreading roots. As it has produced good growth but failed to flower, what I'd suggest (and this has actually worked well for me despite my rant above) applying some liquid Potash.
About $5 in nurseries/big gardening barns etc. Just dilute with water in a watering can and water over all the foliage. You will probably need to do it a few times, a few weeks apart. The other thing I do know about them is they do not like to be wet. Gardening experts say "the dry side of moist".
Let us know how you go.
Anyone else have any passionfruit tips?
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Roland,
I'm sad to say that I'm an expert in failed passionfruit vines. Have had some successes but more failures. The utter injustice about passionfruit appears to be that the more you love and care for it the more it decides to just spite you and do nothing. I have friends who harvest buckets of beautiful fruit from some forgotten vine at the bottom of the garden which never gets any attention at all.
To add salt to wounds, I planted a vine for my mum, same grafted variety, it's in her clay laden 50 year old neglected soil, chewed to death by possums and the thing fruited after 6 months
Whiskers
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Hi roland
As Julia mentions growing in a pot can starve them of nutrition. Her tip about applying extra potash will definately help. Actually any fruit or veg plant that produces heavy crops of fruit will benifit from extra Potash from flowering time, to fill out and improve fruit quality... great for spuds.
It sounds like Julia is probably using the best liquid potassium, as potassium citrate, a pure potassium in an organic acid base, about 12.5% K. It can be watered over plants with no risk of burning leaves.
Just a reminder though to check that you don't buy Potassium Chloride, KCL. Also, sometimes Humic Acid is promoted as a potassium fertiliser. While it does contain potassium it is only very low amounts. It might say Potassium humate 10-14%, but the actual K will only be about 1.5%.
The other thing about passionfruit is Boron is a key nutrient that they need a bit more of to help with high calcium uptake and ensure good fruit set. Passionfruit nutrition is similar to Paw Paw/ Payaya, is a fairly heavy feeder so in a pot it would benifit from the high potassium Aquasol plus liquid Potassium Citrate, or Nutritech Tripple Ten for passionfruit http://www.nutri-tech.com.au/products_new/liquid-fertilisers/triple-ten-range.html. Even though it is specially blended with a slightly different balance of micro-nutrients for passionfruit, it can be used on other fruit and veg without problems.
Julia, good fruit set but hollow fruit is systematic of low phosphate (and/or associated elements Zn and Mg). This is the low brix levels that I mentioned earlier. If your soil or pot mix is low in phosphate and/or you haven't applied a balanced granular preplant fertiliser, it will need extra P to ensure good seed set and development. That one is a classic case for a few applications of Tripple Ten before flowering.
Julia
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Whiskers, you are clearly a very expert gardener - thank you so much.
So it seems the phosphate deficit is probably throughout my garden as the passionfruit is far away from what was the vegie garden. Is the name of the product "Tripple Ten"?
I notice you suggest to Roland that he apply the liquid potash when the vine is flowering. I was hoping that using it might induce flowering. I've used it thus myself and it seems to have worked but it might have been going to flower anyway. What's your view on this?
So it seems the phosphate deficit is probably throughout my garden as the passionfruit is far away from what was the vegie garden. Is the name of the product "Tripple Ten"?
I notice you suggest to Roland that he apply the liquid potash when the vine is flowering. I was hoping that using it might induce flowering. I've used it thus myself and it seems to have worked but it might have been going to flower anyway. What's your view on this?
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Can anyone give some hints on how to grow capsicum?
I've had a lot of succes with chillis for years though when trying to grow capsicum, they are always small (40mm diameter) and deformed.
I try to keep the soil at a neutral PH asa the chillis thrive there.
Usually use an osmocote in the potted soil and a liquid fertilizer on a monthly basis..The plant's folage is a dark green with well formed leaf structure and they readily flower, just the end result is poor.
Any tips?
Cheers,
I've had a lot of succes with chillis for years though when trying to grow capsicum, they are always small (40mm diameter) and deformed.
I try to keep the soil at a neutral PH asa the chillis thrive there.
Usually use an osmocote in the potted soil and a liquid fertilizer on a monthly basis..The plant's folage is a dark green with well formed leaf structure and they readily flower, just the end result is poor.
Any tips?
Cheers,
Most plants don't die because of a shortage of fertiliser, they are just not thriving. However many plants are ruined or killed with too much fertiliser. Most fertilisers need to be applied very lightly. eg. In agriculture some trace minerals are applied at the rate of 200gms per hectare and a fertlising rate of 2 or 3 bags (40kg) per hectare. Organic fertilisers can be much higher. Ag lime is not dehydrated lime, one acts slow and can be used reasonably heavily, the other is sudden death if used in the same quantities. One of the safest ways to correct deficiencies is to use fish emulsion and kelp extracts or dynamic lifter with those as additives.
This morning I have had from the garden tomatoes, zucchini, sugarloaf cabbage, beans. silverbeet, button squash, lettuce and carrots. All grown with plenty of compost, blood and bone and dynamic lifter. There is also a lot of fish incorporated in the compost.
This morning I have had from the garden tomatoes, zucchini, sugarloaf cabbage, beans. silverbeet, button squash, lettuce and carrots. All grown with plenty of compost, blood and bone and dynamic lifter. There is also a lot of fish incorporated in the compost.
Whiskers
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Thats very flattering of you julia,
but actually my garden is what you might call a lazy mans garden. It's nothing too flash compared to manicured gardens like my mums, but it's low maintaince and provides the goods. Actually I was raised on a farm worked in 'dirt' as a supervisor in the civil construction industry before returning to a farming business. My scientific knowledge is more anecdotal from experience dealing with soil technicians and agronomists. This is where we need someone with a science based degree like JeSSica WaBBit. Jessica where are you when I need you?
It seems likely, as I said earlier coastal Queensland is typically low in nutrition, especially P and especially in lighter coloured soils. Tripple Ten will help rectify the problem quickly for existing crops and as a bit of a boost when heavy fruiting fruit and veg come up to flowering and fruit fill.
Where you have not yet planted, a good preplant fert along the lines I mentioned in a previous post is the best way to provide P. The fundamental difference between a preplant fert and others is that the N is low and mostly in ammonium form for slow release and help fruit development, while less N is as nitrate for early growth and it includes equal or more P than N.
I won't suggest straights (ie single nutrient fertilisers) because as nioka points out below, it is a risky business and you could easily kill plants. Molybdenum and Boron are two that are essential but required in relatively very small amounts, eg 200g to 1kg per ha respectively. Another that is deadly as nioka points out below is dehydrated lime sometimes refered to as quicklime. It is not the same as aglime and is not used in agriculture except in exceptional circumstances after soil and plant sap testing and under an agronomists recomendation.
Continue to use organic manures and compost to build up the organic carbon and humus over time, but just be mindful that you might get a sudden release of N in hot humid conditions. If you grew a heavy feeder like corn or leaf veges after applying manures, a sudden release of N won't hurt as much as if you grew cucurbits, strawberries, carrots, potatoes etc.
The other main problem with manures, particularly chook manure is that with heavy applications over time excessive P levels can be a problem. Don't stop using manures, just use them in moderation. Superphosphate is typically used to raise P levels, but even on the farm unless P is seriously low, we prefer to use a blended N P K fert at preplant that also contains some Calcium and Sulphur.
A qualified scientist like Jessica could get into the niti-griti better than I, but in general potassium governs the opening and closing of the stomata (mainly on the underside) on the leaves which allows it to breathe and take in atmospheric nitrogen and foliar fertilisers. K determines the number of fruit that set and the size of the fruit.
So, in summary P is required for good root development, promote good shoots and seed development, which involves the fruit we want. K then kicks in to determine the number and size of the fruit. P and K (with adequate micronutrients) work together for photosynthesis and development of sugar (brix) levels.
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Cheers austek, sounds like a good (and relatively simple) set-up.
Just to clarify, are the strings attached to ground in some way initially or is that not required (assume after a few weeks the plants would be more self-supporting?). Cheers.
Think more for next year / winter crop as I have my summer plants in now
Whiskers
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Hi Stan 101
Again a scientist like Jessica might be able to get down to more precise detail.
Contrary to common belief, phosphate is just as or more important than nitrogen and essential for good quality plant growth. Boron deficiency symptoms include misshappen fruit with irregular depressions. Boron is also highly leachable out of the soil.
Your dark green colour and reasonable numbers but poor quality fruit sounds like a bit too much N and not enough P and boron. All the fertilisers you use include some boron, but as you fertilise monthly, I reckon it is getting leached out faster than it is added.
Some potting mixes say they contain enough fert for 'so' long, but whether they do is contencious. In a potting mix I would fertilise at least every week, twice a week when they get near flowering to fruit fill.
If you use a lot of fert you could get a good preplant fert similar to the one on the incitec link of an earlier post and mix a good handfull to about 10litres of potting mix, dampen it and let it stand for a few days before you plant. Alternatively you can sometimes get a preplant fert called Q5 at a nursery or bunnings. Its half the strength of the former, so just double amount.
If you prefer osmocote, a little chook or pig manure mixed with it preplant will boost trace elements and P or blood and bone for P. The associated N in blood and bone is in organic form and wont cause a problem. I don't recommend too much blood and bone as it only contains N and P but no K. Use the lowest N fert to water later.
The safest source of trace elements is dry chook or pig manures, liquid vermicast, fish emulsion and kelp individually or in a combined mix will improve organic carbon content and retention of all elements especially boron. Tripple Ten also contains good organics, trace elements and organic carbon and would be quite suitable to replace your present fert once the plants have established and near flowering.
Whiskers
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You sound like you have got things going pretty well, nioka.
As you say many plants are killed with kindness... too much fert. I use fish, vermicast and kelp regularly too. It is not just the trace elements they contain but all sorts of essential hormones, proteins and microbial species essential to keep the soil alive, as opposed to just a chemical cocktail.
Another good product that comercial farmers also use is common molasses. It contains iron, obviously sugar to feed the microbes, and it is good for cleaning trickle irrigation lines. It is fairly acidic and like all fertilisers more is not necessairly good. Something like 5ml per square meter is adequate.
i'm in mourning.
we had a ripe tomato about the size of a baseball which would have been the first one picked this season. i have been eyeing it off for a few days, deciding whens the best time to take it.
it seems the local possums were thinking the same thing. i blamed the missus, then the neighbours, then the birds, but im sure it was the family of ringtails in the gum tree.
hope they bloody well enjoyed it.
we had a ripe tomato about the size of a baseball which would have been the first one picked this season. i have been eyeing it off for a few days, deciding whens the best time to take it.
it seems the local possums were thinking the same thing. i blamed the missus, then the neighbours, then the birds, but im sure it was the family of ringtails in the gum tree.
hope they bloody well enjoyed it.
Cheers austek, sounds like a good (and relatively simple) set-up.
Just to clarify, are the strings attached to ground in some way initially or is that not required (assume after a few weeks the plants would be more self-supporting?). Cheers.
Think more for next year / winter crop as I have my summer plants in now
Mof, For tomatoes, securing string along the bottom is not required, I support them until a foot tall believe it or not with a perspex bubble gum machine top, this also acts as an open top cloche. I have about 50 of these supplied by a friend, say no more.
What hydroponic growers do is leave strings hang loose, and tie a half hitch around the tomatoe plant to secure the string near the lower portion of the plant. Then just wind string around the stem upward as it grows. Plants may sag a little but this is not a problem. No other form of ties necessary.
This year I did try tying wire across the bottom from pole to pole to secure strings while growing snow peas up the same strings. In the next few weeks I will untie the strings as the peas finish, and the tomatoes takeover.
Hope it not's confusing. And don't forget the worm castings. Great for tomatoes and the worms catch me trout on trout opening day.
Whiskers
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Julia
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Deep commiserations, Arminius. How infuriating is that!
You will pick the next one on the first tinge of colour now, won't you.
Curses on all possums. There are no good possums. In NZ they are rightly treated as pests to be eradicated at all costs.
Mind you, I'd rate grasshoppers, caterpillars and rats pretty closely behind on the hate scale.
Possums are a big worry. I screwed some palings on the top of the back
fence, but this only reduces the number walking past chewing my beans & snow pea tops. A slight help only, coz a family of them live in my large cotton tail palm.
But the goal post method of supporting tomatoes makes it easy to throw bird netting over the top covering the tomatoes. This works!!
austek
fence, but this only reduces the number walking past chewing my beans & snow pea tops. A slight help only, coz a family of them live in my large cotton tail palm.
But the goal post method of supporting tomatoes makes it easy to throw bird netting over the top covering the tomatoes. This works!!
austek
Whiskers
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Here is a recipe I came across to deter possums. It would be interesting to hear if anyone has tried it and if it works.
Some others I have heard of include mothballs, camphor and various commercial 'pest off' products, with limited success.
Some others I have heard of include mothballs, camphor and various commercial 'pest off' products, with limited success.
doogie_goes_off
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I'd dare not hurt a ring tail possum (happy little fellas) but a good recipie for detering a rogue brush tail possum is a gumboot thrown with precision timing.
Julia
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Whiskers,
I tried today to get the Tripple Ten you suggested at the Nikenbah produce store. He doesn't have it and neither does anyone else in this area.
However, he reiterated your suggestion that it is best used in preparing the ground rather than in established gardens. His conclusion was that because I have used so much animal manure and mushroom compost (mostly the latter because of its excellent water holding capacity) my Ph will be too low.
So I have now dosed the garden with Lime and will await the results.
I tried today to get the Tripple Ten you suggested at the Nikenbah produce store. He doesn't have it and neither does anyone else in this area.
However, he reiterated your suggestion that it is best used in preparing the ground rather than in established gardens. His conclusion was that because I have used so much animal manure and mushroom compost (mostly the latter because of its excellent water holding capacity) my Ph will be too low.
So I have now dosed the garden with Lime and will await the results.