Dona Ferentes
Abrió la caja, vio al gatito, y sonrió
- Joined
- 11 January 2016
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but wait, there's more.
Six nights in a ramshackle pub; the land behind was the Namib Desert, at that time a de Beers Prohibited Area, and diamonds were said to be all around. I walked out into stark nothingness one day; plenty of desert rose formed from gypsum but nothing much else. Back on the rig, three more tours, promoted to derrickman. By the end, a round trip at 15,000 ft, or 160 stands, to change the bit was hard work. On the rig, the wind blew every day from the SW, constant, predictable, dry. Then one day, wind was from the NE. Next crew change, the desert had changed, flowers and plants out of nowhere, as it had rained 10 days earlier. Shore leave was in Cape Town where I hung out with white Rhodesian draft dodgers. We flew up and back in DC3's, slow and low, often in seafog, hugging the Skeleton Coast. The Orange River Gorge is very impressive.
With the wildcat well a duster, the rig moved North. Again, I missed the tow, but flew Jo'burg to Luanda and then to San Antonio de Zaire (now called Soyo), on the mouth of Congo River. Crew change by boat and at night we could see the flaring from Cabinda oilfields. Even 30 km offshore and out of sight of land, we were in the fresh waters of the mighty Congo. From March 74 to March 75, we drilled 3 wells and each found oil, which was exciting and hard work.
Meantime, on land, the political situation was deteriorating as the then Portuguese colony fought off nationalist, liberation movements. At the beginning it was safe but with the Revolução dos Cravos in Lisbon in late April, decolonisation started. Soon all the married men were moved off the rig and out of the country, with only single guys like me left. We still worked 2 on, 1 off and flew down to Luanda for shore leave. Took a couple of trips, one to Malanje, visiting a waterfall on the way. There was a pousada at the base, but they told us not to stay. At the rim of the waterfall, MPLA guerrillas were outlined against the sky. That night they burnt down the inn. A month or so later, we hired a car and went south, inland then back to Lobito, down the coast to Moçamedes, the northern end of the Namib, then up a scarp on a magnificent highway to the high country and in to what was called Nova Lisboa (now Huambo). The second city of Angola, but feeling pinched and nervous as fighting flared in the countryside. Our hotel backed on to a convent and it was full of young settler girls. They pleaded with us to get them out, to safety. Made it back to Luanda but travel became impossible after that.
By 1975, things were falling apart and nightly gunfire was heard from the museques, as much fighting between different movements, MPLA, UNITA, FLNA as they sought control; the Portuguese were leaving and it was a mess.
In Feb, after a week in town, our plane flew North. Usually, we would circle the town and a truck would collect us to go to the port. This time, nothing.. we waited then guerrillas jumped out and took us at gunpoint up country. We were kept hostage in huts, treated well but definitely confined. Two days later, a truck took us through the town to the port. Disarmed Portuguese conscripts sat on the town hall steps, disconsolate but alive. The MPLA had taken over and the only person killed was the labour contractor, Garcia, who had been taking 50 per cent of every local hire's salary. A Cuban freighter had berthed and arms and materiel were being offloaded.
I was in Luanda when Agostinho Neto returned from exile to become the President. Not many white people on the streets that day. We finished, flared, tested and cemented the third oil well as a future producer and this time I was on board with the rig under tow to another destination.
Six nights in a ramshackle pub; the land behind was the Namib Desert, at that time a de Beers Prohibited Area, and diamonds were said to be all around. I walked out into stark nothingness one day; plenty of desert rose formed from gypsum but nothing much else. Back on the rig, three more tours, promoted to derrickman. By the end, a round trip at 15,000 ft, or 160 stands, to change the bit was hard work. On the rig, the wind blew every day from the SW, constant, predictable, dry. Then one day, wind was from the NE. Next crew change, the desert had changed, flowers and plants out of nowhere, as it had rained 10 days earlier. Shore leave was in Cape Town where I hung out with white Rhodesian draft dodgers. We flew up and back in DC3's, slow and low, often in seafog, hugging the Skeleton Coast. The Orange River Gorge is very impressive.
With the wildcat well a duster, the rig moved North. Again, I missed the tow, but flew Jo'burg to Luanda and then to San Antonio de Zaire (now called Soyo), on the mouth of Congo River. Crew change by boat and at night we could see the flaring from Cabinda oilfields. Even 30 km offshore and out of sight of land, we were in the fresh waters of the mighty Congo. From March 74 to March 75, we drilled 3 wells and each found oil, which was exciting and hard work.
Meantime, on land, the political situation was deteriorating as the then Portuguese colony fought off nationalist, liberation movements. At the beginning it was safe but with the Revolução dos Cravos in Lisbon in late April, decolonisation started. Soon all the married men were moved off the rig and out of the country, with only single guys like me left. We still worked 2 on, 1 off and flew down to Luanda for shore leave. Took a couple of trips, one to Malanje, visiting a waterfall on the way. There was a pousada at the base, but they told us not to stay. At the rim of the waterfall, MPLA guerrillas were outlined against the sky. That night they burnt down the inn. A month or so later, we hired a car and went south, inland then back to Lobito, down the coast to Moçamedes, the northern end of the Namib, then up a scarp on a magnificent highway to the high country and in to what was called Nova Lisboa (now Huambo). The second city of Angola, but feeling pinched and nervous as fighting flared in the countryside. Our hotel backed on to a convent and it was full of young settler girls. They pleaded with us to get them out, to safety. Made it back to Luanda but travel became impossible after that.
By 1975, things were falling apart and nightly gunfire was heard from the museques, as much fighting between different movements, MPLA, UNITA, FLNA as they sought control; the Portuguese were leaving and it was a mess.
In Feb, after a week in town, our plane flew North. Usually, we would circle the town and a truck would collect us to go to the port. This time, nothing.. we waited then guerrillas jumped out and took us at gunpoint up country. We were kept hostage in huts, treated well but definitely confined. Two days later, a truck took us through the town to the port. Disarmed Portuguese conscripts sat on the town hall steps, disconsolate but alive. The MPLA had taken over and the only person killed was the labour contractor, Garcia, who had been taking 50 per cent of every local hire's salary. A Cuban freighter had berthed and arms and materiel were being offloaded.
I was in Luanda when Agostinho Neto returned from exile to become the President. Not many white people on the streets that day. We finished, flared, tested and cemented the third oil well as a future producer and this time I was on board with the rig under tow to another destination.