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Going to Laos & Cambodia

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3 veiws of a secret

3 veiws of a secret
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Come on guys who's been there done that ,apart from the capitols ,& Seim Reap ( Angkor Wat ) what else should I consider? BTW going with the kids back packing twins 13 & a roughty toughty daughter of 8! who calls herself taekwando Chick , and our porter ......my wife! Jan>mid feb 2007...................
 
mate dont know much about Laos / Cambodia , but been to Cheng Mai - watch the elephants !! They had some there - you could buy bananas and feed them - so I did ,and this young elephant decided I didnt buy enough bludy bananas - and knocked me down - and Im scrambling backwards through the dust and the elephant dropping - and this elephant is trying to stomp on me lol - thank goodness his back leg is tethered by a chain to a post - ps I love elephants - but like people there are rogues.
Maybe you know maybe you dont - a man lives about the same duration as an elephant - in the old days, they were paired "for life" - 50 working years of moving logs together etc - great culture - love those buddhists.
PS Meanwhile, also, here’s a script for storks who bring a daughter
“Just pretend it’s Army games, and she’s incoming mortar,
Here’s two nappies for a week
Best of British, turn the cheek,
There’s a payload off my beak, and
Greetings from the porter”.
DREAM TOGETHER NOW AND THEN
SHOW HER PATHS OF LOVE AND ZEN
-PATHS AND TIME WILL TEACH HER TEN times
MORE THAN WHAT YOU TAUGHT HER.
greetings to the porter friend - and lol I hope you have more success occasionally agreeing with your daughter than I did with mine
 


I've spent a bit of time in cambodia(few months all up), not so much in Laos.
ATMs are virtually non existant. there are plenty of banks to do manual withdrawls from and there trading hours seemed normal. They will need several forms of ID before they hand over the cash, though. You will receive US currency, which is freely accepted throughout the country. Try to keep small denominations of US as often, people simply don't have enough Riel to give in change.

One of my fondest memories of Cambodia was the trip by boat from Siem Reap to Battambang. Was meant to be a 4 hour cruise. It ended up taking at least twice that in the long boat. But it was well worth it. Seeing whole communities living in and on the river was so different to most of other floating places I had seen. Take some food with you, though. We left early and didn't stop to eat till about 1pm. That meal came from a woman in a canoe with a huge pot of streamed rice pulling up beside us and doing business then paddling off.

The boat ride to Sihanoukville from Koh Kong was also a very memorable one. Koh Kong is one of the very popular border crossings between Trat in Thailand and Cambodia. There is all type of accomodation at Koh Kong from flea ridden backpackers to a very Nice new Motel on the water which was about $30US. Excellent value. There is a German guy who runs a backpacker called Otto's from memory. His rooms are a bit budget for my liking but He is a wealth of knowlege and the meals are cheap and tasty.
The boat ride gives you the option to stop on an Island half way to Sihanoukville if you choose.
Sihanoukville is a gem of a place. Beautiful beaches, big old rundown French Colonial homes, some have had a second chance of life as guesthouses.
Huge choices in the way of food, german, italian, french, Kymer are all available. Massage on a beach bed is about $3US for an hour. 10 large shrimp cooked and peeled in front of you for $1US. There are a couple of run down beach bars on the main beach and I spent the best part of a couple of days talking to the guy and girl working there. They taught me some basic Kymer language and in return I bought a few beers, coconuts and green mango with chilli and salt from them. I was the only customer they had had that week.
I also bought them lunch and a little present in gratitude for the wealth of knowledge they passed to me. Scuba diving is suprisingly good there.

From there there are two main roads up to The Capitol. I've taken both and prefered the more northern run avoiding Kampot.

A friend and I tried to find Pol Pot's funeral pyre in the far north east and I highly recommend avoiding that area. Apparently no one has told the locals up there the Kymer Rouge is history. Our guides refused to go any further after an altercation with some local renegades.

Eat the street food, it is devine! Wipe your chops sticks on the paper towels provided. Do not eat the ice. Often raw meat is stored straight on the same ice that is put in your drinks. And the main word of warning is that there are still tonnes of unexploded landmines. never go off a main track out of town. The sheer number of amputees in cambodia (especially the west) is simply heart breaking.

Oh, and international flights a stung a $25US feeon departure. Cash only, no excuses. Have it saved and stashed on you somewhere.

cheers,
 
Stan 101 > Many thanx for your efforts .....I 'm getting the opinion that its a bloody ardous hike to travel to N Cambodia from what i have read in Lonely Planet.I'm actuallu flying into BKK ( Bangkok) and hoping to travel direct to Laos ,then south to North Cambodia .My son who kills armies by the million on Call of duty fails to understand that there are no ESC buttons to live another day ,when you talk buccaneers of the frontiers.
So my question is ,......Is it a case of travel but don't stray off the track when heading south to Seim Reap.
As for the Battambang trip that sounds fabulouso.......and Sihanoukville.......likewise .
I am planning to exit via Trat .....then head of to some island setting of the siam gulf with the family before the great rush to BKK and overnight stay and flight back to Melbourne....
Do you have any other thoughts in this circular route....................
with thanx!!!!!
 
Re: your son. I highly recommend you spend time at the Killing Fields in Phenom Phen. It's not pretty but it certainly is humbling. My like Auschwitz was in Poland for me.
When in Phenom Phen, if you are a bit of a cricket nut, the Grandson of a ledgendary Cricketer of the Bradman era has a bar/food place called Dingos. It was child friendly when I went there, but best check yourself first. Things change overnight . Anyway, it's down along the river. About 800m from the Royal Palace. I was only the second person apparently to ever pick who his grandfather was by his bowling stats. He helped me get a good driver and showed me around a bit. Seemed like a nice guy.

There are a few border crossings to Thailand. If you went from Battembang to Palin you could maybe stop at the old Kymer Rouge caves which are really quite interesting. From Palin, you can get a car or bike taxi to the Border crossing. You then get a taxi to Chantiburi in Thailand. But that trip would not be one I'd take with kids as very little english is spoken at all and I was by far the only "Farang" (tourist) they had seen in a while.
Also from Laos to Cambodia, a guy in an official uniform at the border will try to make you pay for all these made up taxes, like Bird Flu tax and the like. Simply ask for a receipt before you hand over any cash. No receipt, no pay.
You will be hounded by touts as well. Just be firm with them, but friendly and say NO!


If you are heading back via Trat, the boat trip from Sihanoukville to Koh Kong is about 4 hours and the trip from Koh Kong to trat via mini bus is about 3 hours from memory.

I can highly recommend the Island of Koh Chang. The isand's ferry departs from Trat. It is a family friendly island (very few go go style bars) and is an amazing place to explore. Little chalets on the beach for about 400 baht a night. You will see open backed utes with canopies on them. They are taxis. Just wave them down by waving your arm up and down vertically (like an exagerated dog pat motion). it's usually a flat 40 baht fee from anywhere to anywhere. The southern end of the west coast of the island has less big shops and is much more idilic. There is a nice floating fisherfolk village in the south to explore. Great waterfalls and swiming holes.

The trip from trat to Bangkok is about 4 hours by minibus and shouldn't cost more than 200 baht (I say shouldn't!) or you could just catch a public bus from the bus station for about 80 baht.

With the kids in tow, I'd tend to not get far off the beaten track as the language will be your biggest issue. Just a common sense approach, as usual.

If you PM me your email I'd be happy to flick you a few pics of what you may encounter.

As for The Angkor region. I'd go a 3 day pass. Find a good Tuk Tuk driver in the siem rewap town itself and use the same guy every day. Fix the price before you ride. They will also help with other things. Tip them lavishly at the end of the trip. A few extra US won't kill you, but it can really change a life over there. Maybe take a few cheap aussie kangaroo keyrings or the like to trade with locals or just as a good gesture.

HAve a great trip.

La Gorwn!!
 
Stan 101,

have you thought of writing travel books? your information is great! I think even better than some of the lonely planet guides I've used!!

cheers
rubles
 
Sorry not really not interested in Phenom Phen ,plus I must admit with the research I've plunged myself into ,it seems Laos is a must and this place and that place also,but I will try and travel down by boat to Camdodia via Mekong River .
"TIHS" there's so much to see ,as for the touts and other groupies that pinch, pull you around is of no concern to us, as we just change lingo,and that normally throws them into confusion.I was thrown into jail on the Parguayian border police for not paying US$10 !!!!!! I did'nt care about the cell -but I cared about the whereabouts of my passport.....memories!
But yep I get your prompts and considerations. The problem is whether to go from Battembang > Palin or Sihanoukville ??? then press hard for Koh Chang & thereabouts. Not to mention the durian experience! now that would keep the pimps away!
 
3 veiws of a secret said:
via Mekong River .... Not to mention the durian experience!
Click to expand...
3views, You will be aware that Australian aid (through John Holland) built the "Frendship Bridge" at Vientiane (across the Mekong),- got a feeling it was opened by Keating - and Australians no doubt enjoy some kudos to this day (also Baulderstone did the bridge in Vietnam near mouth of Mekong at My Thuan) - As I understand it, for the Frienship Bridge, (between Thaliand and Laos) , they drive on left on one side, on right on the other - and lol - there's a railway line going down the middle - Ive never been quite sure how it is that if cars are approaching from each direction simultaneously, and also a train is coming, then they still miss each other Durian - the old story about the taste from heaven and the smell from hell yes ? There is a small bamboo snake isnt there ( check noirua's snake's thread) Banded Krait as I recall - pretty dangerous, but generally ignored in most parts of Asia. Then again Id be inclined to wear decent boots myself. - plus of course the cobras etc. and of course there's galloping footrot which seems to jump from your feet to your crotch in a nanosecond. Enjoy friend lol.
 
2020hindsight......like all snakes is confronted they will snap at you-when i was a kid growing up in England I use to think if I was the king of the world i would eradicate all the snakes in the world,until I heard of this story where in India villagers where paid for every snake killed .So what happens the rats and mouse plague took over. I was in Goa this January in the jungle doing a walkabout with the kids and this French explorer,come tourist guide ,you should see how many snake skins where shed along the river .I think its the python that scares me more then Kraits.Crickey what am I saying!
Yep thanx for John Holland's bridge .....as soon as I read your snippet ,my 2 remaining brain cells clicked in!
BTW banditry on the Mekong river is something to be considered also,no doubt 'taekwondo chick' will sort them out!
 
3 veiws of a secret said:
BTW banditry on the Mekong river is something to be considered also,no doubt 'taekwondo chick' will sort them out!
Click to expand...
PIRATES !!As someone would have said mate - "dont muck with em !!". I was in Philippines (Cebu) on a yacht about 25 years ago. Another yacht arrived - it had come from Singapore through notoriously bad pirate territory (not far from Zamboanga etc) - started journey with mother father and an infant kid. Anyway pirate boat showed up - the lady went down to cabin returned with a rifle - shot over their heads - they shot her through the head (from some distance and still closing) - she went over the side - they then turned their weapons towards father, but the infant was hanging onto his dads leg - so they allowed them both to live. - Just robbed them. And that's how they came into Cebu - minus the mother. They were moored beside us, and we discussed it with them. what to say - ?? be careful man.
PS Sorry , I should add Ive never heard of bandits on Mekong - and Im sure that theyre not as bad as in Phillipines (where the pirates take over massive oil tankers etc - and not far from Manila, brazen fellows) - sorry I'm probably sensationalising it - apologies. Still - might pay to avoid em if you can
 
Some good tips from Stan 101.

I wouldnt advise travelling anywhere in Cambodia by road except the main route which runs the southern side of the lake, from Phnom Penh, Pursat, Battambang etc towards the Thia border. Boat trips on the lake are awesome, about 1 million people live and survive from the lake.

I would say the capital is worth a visit though, to places lie the killing fields and S21 detention centre. Its well worth shelling out to pay a guide in these places for a proper account of what happened. Its wierd seeing the tuk tuks here advertising ANZ on the side of their vehicles. As for transport, I wouldnt bother with the guys that hang outside the hotels, just walk down to the nearest intersection and flag one down.

Not much else I can think of, never made it to Laos.
 
This Laos section in Lonely Planet is pretty revealing ,and I'm beginning to think my mad dash of 27 days is not long enough....I have to draw the line somewhere .All points of veiw totally appreciated . No one has mentioned Bird -flu ...........haaaaaaaaaaaaaa
 
3 veiws of a secret said:
No one has mentioned Bird -flu...
Click to expand...
as someone said , if you find you get a sudden fever usually accompanied with nausea, maybe aches and pains - and an irresistible desire to poop on someone's windscreen - then mate - youve got it!
 
I'm off to the Phillipines in December - I'll be sure to duck
 
Ok my first problem .I'm talking Cambodia....trying to travel west either from Stung Treng or Kratie on the Mekong River .Reason I'm trying to head for Seim Reap................
Any ideas???? will look at www.talesofasia.com
 
2020hindsight said:
mate dont know much about Laos / Cambodia , but been to Cheng Mai - watch the elephants !!
Click to expand...

http://www.abc.net.au/news/newsitems/200611/s1782406.htm
If you still have access to internet, 3views, check this out.
Like horses, m8, there are many "rogues". (as well as many "truly beautiful" and strong characters )
lol I remember going to a "riding ranch" and these pepol left all saddled up etc - just reached the far bushes, - an almighty scream - riderless horse returns for its oats - and its next victim lol.
 
mate, you have to try dirt biking in Cambodia.

look up hiddencambodia

costs about 100 US and is worth every cent

Pm me if you need more info...
 
Just spent a week in Laos myself:

Luang Prabang is a really nice ex-French colonial town - family friendly with acc. about $4 - 5 a night. A great place to hire bikes and ride around the town - good night market too. You can eat on the street for about $1. Just out of the town there's a beautiful waterfall that has green waterpools you can swim in.

A 5 hour minivan trip ($20 pp) south to Vang Vien is definately worth it if you can make it. There's a river which you can tube down for 5 - 6 hours, stopping at bars along the way with rope swings and flying foxes. Spectacular mountain scenery surrounds. Would be great fun for kids...

Also spent 3 weeks in Cambodia last year:

Agree that a 3 day pass (take passport photos and about $45) is necessary to really absorb all the temples. The boat ride from Siem Reap to PP is an eye-opener, but the boat frequently breaks down. If you do stay in Pnom Pehn, the 'Billabong' is a good hotel run by an Aussie and has a huge pool. S21 and the killing fields are good, but if you don't have time for both, go for S21. There is a shooting range out at the fields if you want to shoot an AK47, M-16, handgun ($1 a bullet) - or even an anti-aircraft gun!

3 hour taxi ride to Sianoukville will cost about $18. Beaches there are OK, but not as good as Thailand. Also agree that Koh Chang is good, but again, not as good as their southern counterparts.

Take $US in small denominations - you'll use plenty of them.

Booze (liquor) is amazingly cheap in Cambodia so buy it in the supermarket instead of at the duty free...

Hope you have a good trip.
 
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