You're telling me a stud with 30% of its cross-sectional area and exponentially reduced slenderness will be sufficient? I'm highly scepetical and curious.
Yes, no excuse.. It was just a very basic example of how excessive deflections can cause failure.OK, if you want to start spinning numbers you will have to put it specific about the situation you are referring to.
What do you mean I'm not taking into account other factors?
I was lost there for a bit I think you assumes truss restarint due to my poor english.. I was relating to the stud restraint, or nogg. Assuming 1350mm is an industry standard. on a 2.4m wall it is less.so what has restraint centers got to do with it?
Yes, a 70x15 stud is suitable for a RLW (roof load width) of 3200mm assuming full adherence to the code. So there enough to 5500mm span. Bending is the critical factor.You're telling me a stud with 30% of its cross-sectional area and exponentially reduced slenderness will be sufficient? I'm highly scepetical and curious.
Yes, no excuse.. It was just a very basic example of how excessive deflections can cause failure.
By those factors I mean one can assume not taking live load into account, for instance. It's highly unlikely there will be anyone crawling around in the ceiling or anything of substantial mass being placed on the dwelling.
I was lost there for a bit I think you assumes truss restarint due to my poor english.. I was relating to the stud restraint, or nogg. Assuming 1350mm is an industry standard. on a 2.4m wall it is less.
Yes, a 70x15 stud is suitable for a RLW (roof load width) of 3200mm assuming full adherence to the code. So there enough to 5500mm span. Bending is the critical factor.
A 70x15 with reduced loads sure does handle 9000mm.
Assuming:
79kg/m^ (tiles, roof batten, truss self weight, 10mm plasterboard ceiling, and ceiling battens. - 4kg/m^ if direct fixing the ceiling.)
Live load
Wind up
Wind down
32 m/second
We can safely massively reduce the the wind loads as it is now a temporary dwelling. As mentioned above we can safely assume no live load. We can also raise our max deflection as aesthetics don't really come into play. 9000mm span is fine.
Timber is an excellent product for domestic housing.
cheers,
Termites NEED water, so they MUST have a connecting tunnel to the ground.
Yep, I based it on a 90x35 stud...I would assume the 70x35 would reduce to 50x15 section
BTW I assume you're with a truss/frame supplier... What design program do you use? start with M or a P?
This is a reminder to not get complacent about having termite check done regularly and the termite barrier around the house replaced regularly.
I let two years go by since the last termite inspection (which gave the all clear) and the pest control person has just told me there are termites in front half of the house, affecting all window frames and quite possibly the timber framework in the walls.
Have no idea of cost of replacing all this, but obviously it won't be cheap.
Damn! plus a few more expressive curses!
So keep up the regular checks, folks - they'll be a lot cheaper than the alternative.
How awful. As far as I know the extent of my problem is confined to three window frames, plus a skirting board which could indicate some also in timber wall frame. Won't know, he says, until window frame is removed and wall structure can be inspected.Oh Damn, Julia, that is bad news.
A friend of ours realised after some time that her house had termites. Badly. Especially in one of her son's bedrooms, right in the wall where his bed was. It was so badly eaten away that they could be heard munching! So she asked him if he had heard anything (he was maybe 8 years old) and he said yes, he could hear all this noise going on in the wall so he put his ear muffs on to hide the noise to sleep!How long for, she asked. Hmm, I dunno, a few weeks!
She had to replace all her timber floors (they had eaten underneath, just leaving a thin veneer) as well as timber and woodwork to three bedrooms and bathroom.
No, a few minutes' walk to the sea which wouldn't have anything to do with it. But the garden next to the affected wall is densely planted and kept well watered, probably the perfect environment for the termites.Are you near a creek by chance?
Yes, quinny, the brick is just a single layer veneer. You see the slab of concrete being poured for the foundation, next the timber frames go up, then some thin building paper (someone will probably tell me there's a correct name for this) and then a single wall of bricks on the outside. Then plasterboard on the interior.I am not entirely familiar with building structures but how come you say you have a brick house, yet you have a timber framework in the walls?
I am just wondering. Do they build up the brick around the timber?
I wondered about that, awg. 2 years ago he found termites in some stumps of trees that had been cut down out in the garden quite some distance from the house, treated those, and declared the house was fine.good chance the termite inspection missed the prob 2 yrs ago.
Where would you have to crawl into? The bloke today was some time in the roof. He couldn't get into the walls, so I guess you must mean under the house?I have taken to doing these myself, after finding some myself once
called the termite blokes and they were too fat and lazy to crawl into the tight space that the termites were, they never would have been found with a quick inspection.
Heavens, awg, I wouldn't even know where/how to get under the house and honestly don't think I'm up to crawling around down there. Where would the usual access point be?they even gave me a mouthful, so I sent them away, and dealt with the problem myself
the best way is to use a VERY bright light and inspect EVERY possible spot were they can build a covered mud tunnel, from the ground, which they MUST do.
If u search your underfloor area like this every 6 months, you should be ok.
NO WOOD should be in contact with the earth. (they will bore up the middle)
I realize u r a lady, but this is one u can manage IMO, u will get dirty and have spider webs on u, if u do it properly
Such as I have so kindly provided for them, it seems, with my moist, mulched garden bed. I have to conclude it's this, as the areas where there is paving adjacent to the house are apparently quite OK.really bad problems come about, if additions or modifications have been made that mean the termites have invisible access to woodwork...I have seen this, ie timber houses that have been bricked up...the only way forward is internal wall removal
they usually tunnel up in a very concealed, damp spot.
The original barrier chemical when the house was built (16 years ago) is no longer used. It was supposed to be very effective and to last for about ten years. Have been informed the current one lasts maximum of five years and still needs to have inspections done at least annually.they are all through the soil, eating organic matter, and always try to come back.
the electronic meters they use wont pick up an early tunnel.
very strong poisons are needed to eradicate them, and it only lasts a while.
I have to say I'm more focused on eliminating termites than pleasing the EPA so have noted this suggestion. Where would one get used sump oil? A mechanical workshop?used sump oil soaked into the ground, around a wooden item will deter them (old-fashioned solution), not so sure the EPA would like that now.
Awg, I can't tell you how funny is any suggestion that I might be 'handy with tools". Utterly useless would be being kind when describing my abilities in this direction.having said all that, u will need builders and termite sprayers to rectify now, unless u r very handy with the tools.
Can you explain a bit more about these - how they work, where to buy etc?termite traps can be bought to show the presence
You're confirming that I've been the perfect host, Calliope. Hope the little *****'s are grateful for my hospitality!!You are right. Termites are attracted to moisture. That's why to come above ground they have to build galleries so they are never exposed to the open air. They even have to take liquids back to their nests to maintain a constant humidity in the nest. Outside this environment they die.
In dry weather they are naturally attracted to gardens which are regularly watered and these are often very close to the house. Once there, they are ingenious at finding an entry point to carry out their mission which is to expedite the passage of dead and decaying timber back to the soil.
In nature they perform an essential function and they don't discriminate. The only way to protect your house is as Awg says is to get down and dirty, and be eternally vigilant. Try to think like a termite.
No I don't think so, Sails. Will check the insurance company's literature but it wouldn't really be reasonable to expect them to cover it. Serves me right for not being more careful about frequent inspections, though the bloke today said they were not infrequently called to infestations where the property had been quite OK just a short time earlier, much less than a year.That is horrible news, Julia. I certainly hope it can be repaired at a reasonable price. I am guessing that insurance doesn't cover termite repairs?
Sounds great, onetrack - many thanks.The simple answer to termites (before they attack, of course) is a system known as ExTerra. Traps placed in the ground at several metre intervals around the house, filled with strips of their favorite tasty wood, show up any activity with regular checks. If termites are found, a non-toxic foam is placed in the traps, and it kills all the termites. End of problem, and no nasty pesticide residues. Check out their website. I installed the system 2 years ago, and I can assure you, it works.
I have to say I'm more focused on eliminating termites than pleasing the EPA so have noted this suggestion. Where would one get used sump oil? A mechanical workshop?
Sir O, thank you indeed for pointing out my stupidity. Of course I should have thought of that. Don't suppose I'd have done it anyway as I'm not a 'do it yourself' type - feel a lot safer with professionals.Julia,
Do you really want to put an accelerant around your entire house? Termites might be the least of your problems.
Sump oil is also the old wives tale of how to keep snakes out of your yard. I have half an acre of forest at the back of my property and my silly silly neighbours at the back decided to pour sump oil along the fence line (On my side thank-you very much), to keep the nasty pythons away from their yappy little maltese terrier. A couple of weeks later and a stray spark from someone burning leaves in their backyard and half my forest went up in flames. Most of the big trees survived, but all the undergrowth was reduced to ash. (After that I built a 9 foot stratco steel fence at the back).
Sir O
Sir O, thank you indeed for pointing out my stupidity. Of course I should have thought of that. Don't suppose I'd have done it anyway as I'm not a 'do it yourself' type - feel a lot safer with professionals.
Sorry to hear about your forest. Don't suppose the fire at least gave the yappy terrier a bad case of smoke inhalation?
The barrier treatment is being done on Saturday - $1500 and supposed to last for five years, but annual inspection is mandatory. Then I'll get some builders' quotes for the repairs.
There are numerous issues with steel frame.
1. Corrosion.
2. Fire.
3. Fixings.
4. Noise
5. Easy site rectification
5. Timber is a plantation product devil in this regard.
6. It's a misnomer to think steel frames stop termites. oard.
Cheers,
My only concern is how effect is Termimesh anyways....
I guess it's better than nothing...
Many years ago it was DIY treatment for most people and a blow torch, carefully used, did the trick for destroying termite nests. In fact people put themselves out to continually check, but these days they rest on their laurels.I've had no experience of treating termite invasions. However, I was told that mixing citrus oil with warm water and painting or spraying on surfaces did the trick for DIY treatment. About 1 eggcup full to about 4 litres of warm water.
I just wander how deep in ground termites are?
Can they go few metres deep into soil?
So how do you protect yourself from termites in the last 18 years?There are a few companies that offer protection and annual checks on monthly payments. As it's 18 years since I had such a plan I doubt it is quite the same these days.
I'm entirely aware of that, Noirua and have already clearly acknowledged that I neglected to get another inspection done at 12 months after the previous one. Thank you, however, for underlining the point.I feel sorry for people caught out, but paying premiums to protect your property is a must. So, Julia, sorry to have to say this, it's your own fault really
Don't know what you mean "is this just for a topic of conversation?"- Good Luck anyway. Mind you, is this just for a topic of conversation, indeed I hope so?
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